Boys' day out - Lake Lyell

It was a pleasant and relaxing day out at the lake with my sons Inigo and Jaz, the recent rain had cleared but good cloud cover remained, we caught some nice fish both browns and rainbows in the upper reaches, the water level was up to around 50% capacity; we sighted pelicans, cormorants, ducks; enjoyed a fry up for lunch, shared a few home brews, went for bit of a paddle, stayed into the night for moonrise and arrived home at a late hour.

 

The lake is also the site of an important convict stockade dating from the 1830s. The young convict Thomas Cook was transported for forgery in 1831 and recorded his experiences in a chain gang stationed there in winter:
 

The dismal and dilapidated state of the habitation which exposed its inmates to the inclemency of the weather, the wretched and haggard countenances of the men, the severity of the cold, and the want of a second or even one good blanket to save the half frozen men from perishing, the idea of bedding with a second or third man as was the custom so as to create warmth, appeared to me altogether objectionable and many a tear did I shed when contemplating upon my hard fare. I was yet in the dark of the horrible propensities which the coarse and brutish language of my gang mates in calamity, coupled with their assignations one towards he other, shortly told me the greater number of them had imbibed. In referring to this horrid contagion I feel I should reserve its nauseous details out of respect for the delicacy of my readers.
Experiences of a Convict, 1840.

 

It is hardly surprising that things were just a bit too cosy for young Thomas, because the three pillars of convict society from 1788 to at least 1840 when transportation ceased, have been described as rum, sodomy and the lash (not that there is anything wrong with that!).

Although a little warmer now than it was in the 1830s, the lake's location on the Lithgow plateau produces water temperatures that are cool enough year round for salmonid stocking and it's the nearest trout fishery to Sydney, which makes it popular with locals as well as visiting anglers. Fishing link

Sofala reflections, pale moon rising/setting

Sofala reflections
Originally uploaded by JohnMerriman

Although not apparent at first, this tiny white ripple appeared in the corner of an otherwise fairly cluttered shot taken on an early morning walk along the Turon river - shooting reflections at 10 megapixels gave enough room to crop to about 10% of the original and there she was: pale phoebe, goddess of the moon. Called Hecate before she had risen and after she had set; as Astarte when crescent and Diana or Cynthia when in the open vault of heaven; as Phoebe when looked upon as sister of the sun (Phoebus) and Selene or Luna, the lover of the sleeping Endymion.

Beneath the surface is a river bed made famous in the 1851 gold rush for the rich alluvial gold it produced and the 10,000 miners who worked it, flecks and even small nuggets of which can still be found almost anywhere along its course.

The ancestors would have known exactly if the moon was rising or setting as well as its phase and worshiped accordingly; living as we do in cities and high rise and of course no longer revering her, except for the dedicated few; we are now mostly unaware of her activity.

Trout fishing in particular reawakens for me the awareness of the old natural cycles, fly casting quietly from the lake shore in the darkness, using the moon's reflection on the water to find the line on the surface and locate the ripples of a rising fish, observing the feeding activity periods that ebb and flow through the night as invertebrates react to lunar activity, changing position as the reflection path angles away, wiggling cold toes, lifting mud-stuck waders...see also the Bard

Some trout flies

Mainly river and stream patterns at the top and some lake patterns below. Dressing flies is not unlike cooking: one begins by following recipes in books and learning the techniques until branching out and creating variations and original patterns incorporating new materials to meet specific needs or conditions. more

A number of patterns are named after women, for example the traditional Mrs Simpson is named for Wallace Simpson, others refer to my favourite places, people I know, life events and may incorporate reference to the types of fly such as b.h. for a bead head or simply wet or dry.

I designed a salmon fly pattern called Elsa Garrett to honour a Blue Mountains girl who dressed flies for Zane Grey in the 1930s.

I have also like to design and name individual flies or sets as memorials to anglers who have gone to rest, note the Purple People Eater is in there somewhere. I wonder how an all black fly would go, maybe with a flash of silver, called the Johnny Cash or simply the man in black.

Fly fishing problems are essentially aesthetic problems that lead to aesthetic solutions: colour, visibility, shape, size, sparkle, motion, drag, movement, silhouette, sink rate, how a dry fly sits upright on the surface and catches the light at sunset, how an emereger pattern sits just so in the surface film. As John Goddard and Brian Clarke have remarked in The Trout and the Fly, the trout fly is a clean device that lends delicacy, mobility, lightness and elegance to the pursuit of trout.

In recent times there has been a terrific expansion of fly fishing in Australia to include salt water tropical species such as bone fish, barramundi, golden trevally, saratoga, mangrove jack, sooty grunter, jungle perch and temperate species such as bream, mullet and whiting, as well as warm water native species including bass, cod and perch. Some of these critters have big razor sharp teeth and can pull like a horse - delicacy and lightness are inmost cases best left at home. more

It does however demonstrate how successful the fundamental principles of fly design have been over the last 500+ years since first described in print in the "Treatyse of fysshynge wyth an Angle" by Dame Juliana Berners in 1496.

Finally we may turn to Isaac Walton, from The Compleat Angler first published 1653, wow what a language:

O sir, doubt not that angling is an art. Is it not an art to deceive a trout with an artificial fly? a trout! that is more sharp-sighted than any hawk you have named, and more watchful and timorous than your high-mettled merlin is bold; and yet I doubt not to catch a brace or two to-morrow for a friend's break­fast: doubt not, therefore, sir, but that angling is an art, and an art worth your learning. The question is rather, whether you be capable of learning it? for angling is somewhat like poetry, men are to be born so: I mean, with inclinations to it, though both may be heightened by discourse and practice: but he that hopes to be a good angler, must not only bring an inquiring, searching, observing wit, but he must bring a large measure of hope and patience, and a love and propensity to the art itself; but having once got and practised it, then doubt not but angling will prove to be so pleasant, that it will prove to be like virtue, a reward to itself.

Curiosity Rocks, Lake Jindabyne

The Rocks have not looked like this since Lake Jindabyne started filling in 1967, it shows the impact of the current drought cycle that began in 1996 compare. The dam was at below 50% capacity when this was taken with a 19-35 mm lens and polarising filter. With only average snow falls this year, the inflow will have little impact after draw down for hydro power, irrigation and environmental flow for the Snowy River below the dam. more

Those snags in the water are festooned with line and lures, some of which are now part of my angling history display in the den. Some of the old classic lures which haven't seen the light of day for 20-30 years were cleaned up and given a swim with new hooks and still worked well.

I guess the Rocks looked much like this before the dam when the valley was a pioneer grazing community, home of The Man from Snowy River, and even before then when the Ngarigo people roamed here and visited the high country each summer for the bogong moth feasts.

As the weather heats up in October, the moths, Agrotis infusa, more migrate to the cooler mountains to aestivate, the reverse of hibernation, in their thousands, up to 17,000 per square metre, in the cool dark cracks and crevices in the great boulders and scree slopes. They were easily smothered with smoke and scraped off the rocks into nets and skins then carried back to camp, roasted and eaten whole or pounded to a paste, made into flat cakes and cooked on hot stones. High in protein and fat, their taste was described as rich and sweet and similar to roasted walnuts.

This abundance of food encouraged great inter-tribal gatherings for trade and exchange, feasting, ceremonies and dispute settlement. Early European observers commented on the people going up onto the mountains looking gaunt and miserable from the winter and returning after a few months sleek and fat, even the dogs were fat! Not forgetting that the mountain pigmy possum, Burramys, is also partial to a feed of bogongs.

Recently however it has emerged that the moths may contain traces of arsenic probably from insecticide absorbed by the larvae which feed on the roots of pasture plants, so recipes for bogong moth omelette should be treated with caution.

Spencers Creek, Rainbow Lake and Snow gums & granite at Charlotte Pass

No trip to the high country is complete without the pilgrimage up to Charlotte Pass; from our camp at Lake Jindabyne the road climbs up to the snow line and then through alpine tussock meadows, over Spencers Creek which is usually worth a stop for a few casts and lunch, past the track to Rainbow Lake, built by the early gold miners as a water supply, where the half hour walk is rewarded with a lovely fishing spot, past the parking bays where the skiers stop to put on snow chains, the road side guide posts change from white to orange and are two metres high for visibility in the snow, up to the highest point accessible by road. A boardwalk skirts these ancient gums and rocks leading to a small lookout with a view of Mt Kosciusko and the glacial tarn, Blue Lake, what a view.

The area around Charlotte pass is one of the last haunts of the Mountain pigmy-possum, Burramys parvus, once thought to be the rarest animal in the world, until it reappeared after 60 years of "extinction" with several populations found living within Kosiusko national park. It is the only specialised alpine and sub-alpine Australian mammal, although often sharing its habitat with the more widespread broad-toothed rat and antechinus. Burramys is the largest of the pigmy possums with an average weight rising from 40 grams to 70 grams as it fattens for winter, and grows to 28 cm including a prehensile tail of about 16 cm. more

The Dingo Tree and other dog tales

My son and I were returning from a long day's fly fishing to a remote Snowy Mountains stream when a massive gum tree loomed out of the darkness, its branches festooned with the bodies of dingoes shot by the local farmer to protect his stock. This folklore practice of hanging vermin as trophies and to deter their ilk probably dates from neolithic times when animals and crops were first being domesticated. Some dogs and pups had been hanging so long only the paws wrapped in fencing wire remain.

They appear to be alpine dingoes from the white colouration of those that still have any fur; further inland they tend red-ginger to sandy-yellow to match their environment, while black and grey also occur, possibly as a result of inter-breeding with domestic dogs.

Anyone who has experienced their long echoing howling often in chorus "where the air is cold as crystal and the white stars fairly blaze, at midnight in the cold and frosty air" while camped alone by a high country stream, will never forget it.

The dingo was brought to Australia in prehistoric times by Aboriginal people who used it to hunt game and as a blanket on cold nights, hence the saying 'three dog night' for a particularly cool evening.

In fact sleeping with dogs is recorded as early as the Natufian culture around 12,000 years ago at the origins of canine domestication. My old archaeology professor, Iain Davidson, notes that in the earliest sites of domestic animals in Palestine, Pakistan and the eastern Mediterranean, you get burials of people with dogs. And sleeping with pets is probably now more widespread than ever. More intimate relations have also been recorded.

Dingo remains appear in the archaeological record from around 3,500 years ago along with a new stone tool technology named the small tool tradition.

Dingo motifs occur widely in Aboriginal art and the dingo is a common character in Aboriginal mythology. In the Blue Mountains it is recorded as a food item after being cooked in a pit oven.

Dingoes soon spread across the continent, except Tasmania, and are are a major feral pest and threat to native animals and livestock, probably accounting for the extinction of the Thylacine, known as the marsupial wolf, on the mainland. The dingo never reached Tasmania because the land bridge over Bass Straight was flooded soon after 10,000 years B.P. as sea levels stabilised.

The species Canis lupus dingo evolved from the Indian wolf about 6,000 years ago and is genetically related to the wild dogs of Indonesia and the singing dogs of New Guinea. New genetic evidence continues to throw light on dingo origins.

the Dingo Tree

Breamar Bay, Lake Eucumbene

This is a silver lake fish flat line trolled on a still overcast day at Breamar Bay. These fatten and grow quickly on yabbies and smelt, cruise the depths in great schools and compete to spawn up the creeks and rivers in Autumn.

Snowy trips tend to be full on: predawn coffee with a shot of single malt to aid the circulation, dawn fly fishing from the bank or trolling from the boat weather permitting with a thermos of fortifying hot coffee, back to camp for breakfast and a warming coffee, out for more fishing, back for second breakfast and a fresh coffee, there might be a hatch on as the day warms so maybe try the dry fly, afternoon snack and a cooling lager to combat dehydration, try some down-rigging or a wet fly from the boat or maybe take a lunch pack and a cooler with a bottle of wine and check out the streams, back to camp in the late afternoon for tackle tinkering and liquid refreshment, a nap then a snack accompanied by a cleansing ale, fish the evening rise, open a bottle of red to have with dinner and relax at the camp discussing the day's events and planning the morrow, try a few casts from the bank while sipping on a glass of single malt, return to camp after a few hours and rug up for night fly fishing with torches, waders, tackle and a thermos of warming coffee, return about midnight, clean the catch and add them to the fish freezer, grab a few hours sleep and tackle up again for the dawn activity peak; with little time or inclination for personal grooming, a certain air of crustiness sets in, but the fish don't seem to mind.

I am reminded of the words of that great brother of the angle (although we know that does include sisters also) Isaac Walton from the Compleat Angler, 1653, who was well aware of the need for a fortifying breakfast and that a fellow's drink bottle should always be kept near to hand:

My honest scholar, it is now past five of the clock, we will fish till nine, and then go to breakfast. Go you to yon sycamore-tree and hide your bottle of drink under the hollow root of it; for about that time, and in that place, we will make a brave breakfast with a piece of powdered beef, and a radish or two that I have in my fish-bag; we shall, I warrant you, make a good, honest, wholesome, hungry breakfast, and I will then give you direction for the making and using of your flies; and in the meantime there is your rod, and line, and my advice is, that you fish as you see me do, and let's try which can catch the first fish.

So you see how little has changed in 350 years.

Thredbo river fish

Thredbo River

The Thredbo is fed by snow melt from the Australian alps within Kosciusko National Park and is now a major spawning stream for fish from Lake Jindabyne, one may fish up and down the river all day and never see another human being, which is the way I like it.

I made this 7' 2 piece split Tonkin cane rod from an old 12' 3 piece rod my father brought out from England in the 1920s, the reel is a Hardy Princess from the 1950s, the floating line a traditional double taper Hardy, the fly a 14#red tag tied parachute style, the fish was released.

This trout is a dark river fish, insect fed, mature and muscular from a life in fast water; quite different from its fat, shiny silver cousins downstream in the lake that gorge on yabbies and cruise the thermocline, feeding open mouthed like whale sharks in the gloom, through clouds of plankton.